There are two keys to creating golden hour light with a Speedlite or strobe—gel your flash to create golden light and position it to create long, angled shadows. Both are easy to do with off-camera flash.
The first step—creating golden light—actually begins by underexposing the ambient light in the scene. As you can see below in the middle panel of Fig. 3, I pulled three stops of ambient light out by increasing my shutter speed two stops and closing the aperture down one stop. Pulling the ambient down to near black is critical. Essentially you are establishing the tone of the shadows that will fall between the slashes of golden light created by your flash.
My go-to gel for creating golden hour light is the CTO (Color Temperature Orange). CTO comes in several densities–called “cuts.” For this shoot, I gelled with a full-cut of CTO. When I’m trying to blend in fill-flash at sunset with real golden hour light, I’ll start with a half-cut of CTO and then change to a full-cut as the sun drops to the horizon. If you want to warm up your general flash shots just a bit without making it obvious, try a quarter- or eighth-cut CTO.
My favorite gels for Speedlites are made by Honl Photo. They are oversized—which means that I can slap them on and rip them off in a split-second—very handy when the sun is crashing into the horizon and you need to change gels. The Honl Filter Sampler Kit provides a good range of CTO cuts along with other colors that you can use for dramatic effect. You will also need a fuzzy cinch strap to wrap around the head of your Speedlite so that the Honl gels have something to grab onto.
The position of the flash outside the window is what creates the long, angled shadows. If you can, position your flash at least 15′ / 5m away from the window. In this shoot, we did not have that much space. The telltale sign is my slashes of light change angle slightly as they go down the wall. Had the light stand been twice the distance to the window than it was, this would not have been an issue.
Also, remember that golden hour light is created when the sun is close to the horizon. This imposes two additional requirements. First, you have to shoot hard light. Putting a big softbox up against the window does not create believable, hard-edged shadows on the wall. Nor does putting the flash in the same room–without an intermediary gobo to create window-like shadows. Second, the angle of the light needs to be rather flat. We know intuitively that sunlight is warmest (most golden) when the sun is close to the horizon. For this shoot, I had to dance between pushing the Speedlite up high enough to drop the shadows at an interesting angle and making my golden hour light look believable.
There are several ways to trigger your flash for this type of shoot. I used the Canon’s new radio-enabled Speedlite system (600EX-RT Speedlite and ST-E3-RT Transmitter) and controlled the whole system from the LCD on my camera. Simple radio triggers would have also worked–but I would have had to run to the Speedlite each time I wanted to adjust the power. This can be a huge hassle if your light stand is outside the building and the door is some distance away. Another option would have been to use an extra-long ETTL/ITTL cord to run a master Speedlite to the inside of the window and let it fire the instructions outside to the slaved Speedlite.
Working Towards The Real Hero Shots
Even when you start with a solid idea, it takes a while a while to find the weaknesses and then work through them. As you will see below in Fig. 7, my original idea was to paint Katie with a dynamic pattern of light and shadow. This seemed interesting at first. I then decided that she became lost in the shot.
So I explored a series of lower and lower camera positions (Figs. 8 and 9). I went from standing, to sitting, and then to putting the camera on the floor. If you peek at the Lightroom gallery above, you will see that I explored a camera position by shooting several frames before I moved on. Sometimes my hero (best) shots are at the end of the shoot and sometimes I pass them by and only discover them after the shoot is over. Shooting several frames at each step helps insure that I’ll have that magic combination of expression, gesture, and nuance when the camera is in the optimal position.
Ultimately, I found the optimal spot for the camera (Fig. 10)—neither too high nor too low—so that the diagonals created by my Speedlite enhanced (rather than concealed) Katie’s strength and beauty. I especially like how the diagonal edge at the top becomes a leading line that runs through her face.
Want a bit of hands-on experience with this type of photography? This shoot was done during my Flash Photography workshop at the Rocky Mountain School of Photography last week. I have two other workshops this summer: Crafting Dramaitic Light With Small Strobes at Santa Fe Workshops and Canon Speedlites Demystified at Maine Media Workshops. I hope to see you out there, somewhere.
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- It's done—the new 'Speedliter's Handbook! Take a look > http://t.co/2moc8if3Pe, Jun 21
- Finally Finished! Meet The New ‘Speedliter’s Handbook’ http://t.co/2moc8iwEGM http://t.co/tUPwZPTGfO, Jun 21
- Brian lights up Shanta on location with a Westcott Rapid Box 26" Octa at #RMSP flash photo workshop. https://t.co/ks44KeUcin, Jun 11
- One way to beat the heat while Speedliting on location with #RMSP in Montana. http://t.co/WUgnaDVKi7, Jun 10
- Jules lights Katie up with the Impact Collapsible 28" beauty disk. On location with #RMSP flash… https://t.co/t4pFedbeNs, Jun 10
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